On an 15-plus-hour family road trip, there’s usually only one requirement for on-the-way lodging: a pool. We decided to forgo our number-one priority on the way to Maine this year and try out The Kaaterskill–a big, red barn rescued by New York City painter Allen Hirsch and converted into a six-room lodge on rolling meadow–farmland and a pond in the Catskill Mountains. Our two boys more than ran off the ten-hour car haul, exploring every inch of the property. They looked for frogs along the edges of the pond; watched the horses from the old wooden viewing platform; and fed the goats. There were sheep and chickens and a grouchy potbellied pig named Apple–and the kids never asked about a pool once.